Inasmuch as we specailize in water features of all types, I will make some general comments here, then break them down into categories in future posts. There is truly nothing like the sound and motion of water in a landscape. Nature’s gurgling sounds, those of brooks or even the larger cascading roars are all possible to reenact in a landscape, right out one’s own door. The process is actually rather simple, and many have done their own, quite admirably and successfully. Indeed, for those who are inclined, some of the very best water features I have ever seen are those of “puttering” homeowners.
Like all landscaping projects, constructing a waterfall system, no matter of what ilk, whether formal or natural, requires intensive labor. Excavations are required, rocks and liners placed, cement work, electrical puzzles need fixing as well as the many and varied engineering problems which have to be borne in mind, including settling of soils after excavation and the new weight of water itself.
Professionals know these various items to watchful of. Splash loss, for example, water replacement, the times and duration, indeed, even the replacement system iself, are huge issues, unless one wants to consider manually filling his water feature daily in Summer when evaporation is such an issue.
In short, water features are complex. They possess many puzzles, some which only appear later for the unwary. Add that they are costly. An installation of a water feature is a “marriage”, of sorts. One wants to know those who constructed it and who are most familiar with its installation will be around in later seasons to help guide the homeowner in the proper direction for maintenance issues.
The beauty of compressed concrete brick pavers in a landscape is multifaceted. Their intricate laying patterns and designs as well as the wide array of colors available now are hugely attractive and very permanent additions to a landscape. Over the past 20 years I have been amazed at the incredible variety in this specialized hardscaping area. Fact is, many cities are making actual streets out of those brick paving stones. Why? Because of their incredible hardness, among other reasons. However, they also have other positive qualities. Aside from their typical P.S.I. (Pounds Per Square Inch) rating of near 8,500 P.S.I. (cement sidewalks in most cities are typically 3-4,000 P.S.I/), interlocking pavers also are disposable individually. One breaks and one changes it. Just replace! Concrete patios and driveways break and suffer from the ravages of freezing and breaking. Pavers tend to be alot more forgiving. They prove flexible in these situations.
As mentioned, they also come in a wide assortment of colors. This cannot be overemphasized, to my mind. The ability to add and choose appropriate colors of hardscape elements in a landscape, and sizes as well, are an amazing advance in design and overall beauty.
From an installation perspective, they require the exact same prep as a street or sidewalk. For patios or more local usages in a yard, actually less preparation is necessary. However, they do share with any road built by man one very important need. Do it right! Some information about “compaction ratings” is necessary. I try to compact absolutely everything to at least 95%, myself. Better prep, for any surface, from pavers to cement, includes the right compaction underneath as well as the correct aggregate products. In essence, poor compaction means the entire walk might move and heave.
We have come full circle in landscaping about what to add and how much of a mulch or even fertilizers in terms of planting things. Current thinking has us adding a minimum of amendments to the soils now. I add some mulch to get a plant started but I happen to agree that, once situated, plants’ roots will reach the local soil. When they arrive there, they should not suddenly encounter some new task of chemistry in relating to this new environment.
Small plants, such as perennials are an exception, in my experience, although many of these do develop huge root systems. We always overexcavate, of course, for all plants, but that is more for loosening the soils and lessening compaction. Perennials require some nicer stuff and are so easy to plant, being smaller, that augmenting their root environment just speeds up their growth. I can think of few perennials which will not glorify a landscape magnificently in their first year.
Trees and large pants, however, should be allowed to “sink or swim”, so to speak. Overexcavate a nice large hole, add a smidgeon of amendments, usually a mulch of some kind, but not enough to utterly change the character of the soil around the plant, is my advice. We want to get it started, yes, certainly, but with larger plants, one needs to think ‘down the road’. As with any transplant, water is a first priority, without which the entire process is useless. And, yes, I use Vitamin B1 for my transplantings. From large to small. Inasmuch as I buy a gallon of it for about 7 bucks, one can use it liberally. Incidentally, and I will blog about this later, the concept of root hormones is making great inroads with fantastic results now. These never hurt.
